Sunday, August 25, 2024

Our Palmyra and Traveling the Waterways

Palmyra, New York has been our place of residence since Easter.  It has become more than a community with the many Church historical sites and the Palmyra, New York Temple.  It has become our home!  We love the history of the mission of Willard and Rebecca Bean who served in Palmyra from 1915 to 1939.  Their story has been portrayed in the movie "The Fighting Preacher" and in the book "A Lion and a Lamb".  As we see the impact of their mission and feel the growth and goodwill of the Church in Palmyra, we are in awe.  As we get to know local residents and culture and see the surrounding beauty, our love increases.

We also had the privilege of traveling on some waterways in the past few weeks, on Lake Owasco and the Erie Canal.  These are also part of the beauty and history of this region.

The DVD of the Fighting Preacher and the book of A Lamb and a Lion.  Each tells the story of Willard and Rebecca Bean who served a 24 year mission to reestablish the Church in Palmyra.

We saw the movie "The Fighting Preacher" several years ago, before we even considered serving this mission.  Before leaving for our mission, we watched it again.  During our grandchildren retreat last month, we watched the movie with them.  After seeing the book "A Lamb and a Lion" in a local museum, we ordered the book and have read it.  The story of this 24 year mission of Willard and Rebecca Bean is remarkable and inspiring.  They came to a city that hated them and eventually won them over with love.  In the process, they were able to help the Church purchase the Hill Cumorah, the Peter Whitmer Farm, and the Martin Harris Farm.  More importantly, they touched the hearts of the local residents.  

When they left, in 1939, there were three branches of the Church, one each in Palmyra, Rochester and Canadaigua.   We now benefit from this amazing history, with growing Church membership and goodwill from most everyone that we meet. Now there are two strong stakes in this same area with several other stakes nearby and . . . a Temple of the Lord. 

The Beans were newlyweds when they were called as missionaries by President Joseph F. Smith in 1915.  The Church had recently purchased the Smith Farm which included the Sacred Grove.  They lived in the home where Joseph Smith lived when he received the Golden Plates in 1827.  Their first daughter was born soon after their arrival and they named her Palmyra.  In fact, the book that we have read was written by Palmyra's son.  As Palmyra began attending school, she was consistently shunned and sometimes threatened.  She had to sit  in a special chair bolted to the floor in the corner, away from the other students.

The original schoolhouse where Palmyra went to school

When Willard Bean came to Palmyra, the majority owner of the Hill Cumorah was Pliny Sexton, a very successful banker in town.  Willard Bean offered to buy his share of the Hill Cumorah for $35,000 and Pliny was asking $100,000.  They continued their friendship until Pliny died in 1924, but the price difference was never resolved.  Finally, Pliny's heirs agreed to sell to the Church for the market value that Willard was offering.   However, Willard's relationship with Pliny was important.  In fact, Pliny dedicated a property next to his bank as a park for the village of Palmyra and allowed Willard to preach in this park every Saturday night. As Pliny was near death, he would lay in his room with the window open so that he could hear Willard's sermons.  He told his nurse that Willard Bean "made the gospel so easy to understand and that he had never heard such a clear interpretation of the scriptures".

The park where Willard Bean preached and nearby bank building.  The upstairs was made into the living quarters of Pliny Sexton.  This is just a block and a half from where we live.

Willard Bean had been a professional boxer in his earlier years.  "He had great confidence in his skills to defend himself physically, and since most of the male population had dreamed of legally laying into him with their fists, he sought to oblige them.  He challenged one and all to enter the ring and match their fighting skills with his.  On one occasion challengers filled the first three rows of the hall, anxious to deck this Mormon once and for all.  One by one they would leave the ring, either with assistance or unconscious, with very few ever landing a punch. He did not fear what man could do and he was capable of punishing anyone who would take him on, regardless of size."  Hence, "The Fighting Preacher" is the name of the movie.

The old Opera House where Willard Bean had a boxing match with many of the residents of Palmyra

Inspite of his reputation as a fighter, Willard and Rebecca Bean won the town with their love and service. When they left in 1939, the entire community honored them in several receptions.  The president of the Lions Club said "We are doing honor to a family that came to Palmyra years ago.  When they settled on the Joseph Smith farm, some of our super-pious citizens started a tirade with the object of getting rid of them..  But as they proved themselves good citizens, we soon learned to tolerate them, then we learned to admire and respect them, and now we love them.  It is with reluctance that we now bid farewell to the most versatile family that ever lived in Wayne County."

We are so pleased to be here.  Just about everyone in Palmyra knows of the Church.  They speak with admiration of the many years of the Hill Cumorah pageant and many remember the open house before the Palmyra Temple was dedicated.  Missionaries are commonplace in the region and well respected.  We benefit from this legacy that began with Willard and Rebecca Bean.

Today in Palmyra:

Erie Canal Depot Museum:
When we first came on our mission we became members of the Palmyra Museum Society.  At the time we visited 3 of their museums.  It was in the primary museum that we saw the book "A Lamb and a Lion".  

Three weeks ago, we visited the last two.  The first was the museum of the Erie Canal.  We wanted to learn more about the Erie Canal before we took our Erie Canal trip on August 23.  Once we were through the visit, I finally realized that the canal boats were powered by mules, dragging the boats from the walkway on the side of the canal.  This visit certainly was able to wake me up to something that Debbie had understood long ago.  This became clear to me in the following photo of their painting.  The glare and reflections make it harder to see, but it opened my mind to understand how canal travel was in the time of Joseph Smith.

My photo of the painting.  Those who paid more could travel on the top of the boat, where there was better air circulation than inside.  See the mules on the pathway to the right with a rope to the boat.

The timing of the Erie Canal was perfect for the restoration of the gospel.  The canal was completed in 1825, just a few years before the Book of Mormon would be printed in Palmyra.  The transport on the canal made it possible for paper and other supplies to be delivered to the Grandin Press, just a block from the Erie Canal.

From the museum, showing the timelines of the different openings of the canal from 1817 until 1821

The Alling Coverlet Museum:

That same day we visited the Coverlet Museum, showing amazing textiles produced in the area, dating back to the early 1800s.  This is a one of a kind museum, very unique to Palmyra, where these coverlets were made.

Debbie in front of the Museum

Viewing some of the coverlets in the museum

Buying a Palmyra Sweatshirt locally:
A few weeks ago, we were invited to visit President and Sister Clay in their home on Lake Owasco (see comments and photos below) and were advised to bring a sweatshirt.  Debbie didn't have a sweatshirt with her that seemed to meet this need.  So I went that morning to see what I could find. If I was to buy her a sweatshirt, I wanted it to be a souvenir of Palmyra.  I went down the street just a few blocks  and found a store that advertised Custom 31 Tee Shirts (Main Street Palmyra is Highway 31).  I went in to give it a shot.  There I found a gem.

Custom 31 store in Palmyra, across the street from the Grandin Building (original printer of the Book of Mormon)

I asked about any sweatshirts with a Palmyra logo.  Eric, the owner, assured me that he could make one within 30 minutes.  I found a sweatshirt the color that Debbie wanted and found a cool design of clouds with the Palmyra name.  Within the clouds was the Angel Moroni statue from the top of the Palmyra Temple.  I told him that I wanted it and would be back in 30 minutes.  

When I came back, he had it ready to press, but didn't want to proceed until he knew that I was serious. So, I was able to watch him create the sweatshirt.  While he did, we talked.  Eric was a typical resident of Palmyra.  He has known our Church for most of his life, has attended a few meetings and of course, the Hill Cumorah pageant several times.  He told me how good the Church has been for Palmyra, it has kept them alive as a village.  He even offers a 10% discount to missionaries. 

This became a very meaningful discussion with a very sincere person.  Eric is still  interested in finding a religious direction in his life, perhaps more than when he was younger.  I was able to leave him one of our Articles of Faith cards, which I had been prompted to put into my pocket before returning to the store.  I included a personal invitation for him to learn more!

Eric, making Debbie's sweatshirt

Debbie, in her Palmyra Sweat Shirt

The Wayne County Fair:
Last week we attended the Wayne County Fair, held in Palmyra.  We hadn't been to a county or state fair for years.  This was fun and gave us a better feel for the people around us.  We knew about the fair because of the sign hanging over Main Street.  Good old fashioned advertising.

Banner hanging over Main Street Palmyra

As we arrived after our Wednesday Mid Shift at the Temple we had many options to visit as noted by the sign below.

Debbie by the sign directing us to the different displays or activities

We enjoyed visiting the animal and crafts exhibits,  watching the sweet corn eating contest, and being entertained by small carnival acts.  It felt good to be among these local residents.  We even met the full-time sister missionaries that are serving in Palmyra.

A big sheep, trying to nibble at Debbie

Checking out the Pigs


Sweet Corn eating contest won by the contestant in the middle.  He was an amazing corn eating machine, leaving the cobs clean.

We even met our friend Diana at the corn eating contest

Local carnival/circus at the County Fair

Balancing act, very impressive

Our Palmyra Temple:

In front of the temple grounds of the "Palmyra" Temple

We continue loving our service in the Palmyra Temple.  We do have an occasional assignment in the baptistry.  Last week, we were able to serve the London and Brampton Stakes from near Toronto, Canada.  They came down for youth conferences which included two days of baptisms at the temple.  We were able to serve the first day for a few of those sessions.  Mostly, we seem to have become specialists for officiating in the endowment sessions.  Over the past few weeks, we have served as endowment officiators just about every shift that we work.  Two weeks ago, we were trained with some adjustments in the endowment presentation.  This training took place by the temple presidency who trained each of the missionary couples.  We, in turn, have had the privilege to train the other ordinance workers, which has allowed us to serve even more often as endowment officiators.  Debbie and I love this opportunity to serve together.

Kong Onesengmani, a temple worker born in Laos.  He joined the Church in the U.S. and serves in the temple 3 or 4 nights a week.  He is an inspiration to me.

Serving in the Palmyra Stake:

A few weeks ago, we scheduled a time to visit our friend, Peggy, at her home with the full-time missionaries.  She had seen the missionaries often as they taught her fiancé, but had not received her own lessons.  As we met together, the missionaries taught her about the first principles and ordinances of the gospel.  We enjoyed sharing our thoughts and testimonies.  I find Debbie to be an amazing missionary teacher.  In the end, Peggy wanted to know how soon she could be baptized.  There was a new missionary, Elder Archibald, who had just been transferred to the area the day before.  This was a choice experience for us.   Last week we were able to give Peggy a ride to her orientation in Canadaigua for her new job.  We are so grateful to be part of Peggy's life as she comes unto Christ. 

Elders Pierce and Archibald with Peggy and E/S Rueckert

Penn Yan Branch linger longer on August 18 with William, Peggy and Tori and her friend Matty in the front left

After the missionary lesson with Peggy, we stopped in the store to buy food for Debbie to prepare a dish for the linger longer.  I am always intrigued by the Mennonites that we see around the Penn Yan region.  This day we saw a few at the grocery store.  I greatly admire their commitment to what they believe.

Mennonites leaving the store in their buggy

Mennonites in the store in their modest clothing

The same day as the linger longer, we had a musical fireside at the Stake Center.  We were privileged to be taught by Brother Wayne Burton, from Canada.  His presentation was on the theme of "The Living Christ"


We saw our friends and fellow temple workers, Charles and Nancy Osborne, who let us sit by them for the fireside.

Traveling the Waterways in New York:

The last two weeks have brought two separate adventures on boats.  On Monday, August 12, we and the other missionaries were invited to spend the day at the lake home of President and Sister Clay of our temple presidency.  They live along the coast of the Owasco Lake, one of the Finger Lakes.  Owasco Lake is 11 miles long and 1.3 miles wide.  

The Clays were wonderful hosts and the company of the other missionaries is always very enjoyable.  We enjoyed some socializing with appetizers, went on a cruise of Owasco Lake, played some outdoor games, made our own pizzas and played some indoor games.  What a day!  This is good clean fun!

The Clays' home on the lake

Socializing with appetizers in the room overlooking the lake

Captain and Sister Clay

Passengers in the front and the back

Elder and Sister Rueckert and Owasco Lake

Moving at high speed!

Playing outdoor games

Making pizzas

President Clay cooking the pizzas

Playing games - Remember the Year

Enjoying Sister Clay's home made cream puffs for dessert

A beautiful night view of the lake

On Friday, August 23, four missionary couples had the day off on the temple schedule.  We decided to take a cruise on the Colonial Belle on the Erie Canal.  This included passing through the Lock and back again, 17 miles each way.  We started with a breakfast/lunch at Rikki's before our tour began at 1:00 pm.  We sailed until 4:30 pm.  A different method of travel, but once again on a boat on the water.  

This one was unique as it was on the waterway that was manmade, completed in 1825, just a few years before the Book of Mormon was published.  All of this would not have been possible without this waterway which facilitated commerce at that time.  Although we traveled with a power driven boat, in those days it was powered by two mules that would walk on the walkway at the side of the canal, pulling the boat.  Every 15 miles they would change mules.  The Erie Canal goes from Buffalo to Albany, New York, 363 miles and includes a drop of altitude of 500 feet.  It included 34 locks to move the barges up or down in altitude before continuing their journey.  Travel by boat (both ways) would not have been possible without this lock system.  The following is from Wikipedia:

The Erie Canal is a historic canal in upstate New York that runs east–west between the Hudson River (Albany, New York) and Lake Erie (Buffalo, New York). Completed in 1825, the canal was the first navigablewaterway connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes, vastly reducing the costs of transporting people and goods across the Appalachians. The Erie Canal accelerated the settlement of the Great Lakes region, the westward expansion of the United States, and the economic ascendancy of New York state. It has been called "The Nation's First Superhighway."

We were impressed by our captain and tour guide.  She was very knowledgeable and described all that we passed by, how it all works, and answered all of our questions.  The lock that we went through elevated us 25 feet and lowered us the same 25 feet on the way back.

Embarking on the Colonial Belle

Eight missionaries with front row seats on the top of the boat

Guided by our captain and tour guide


Beautiful paths on the north of the Canal, previously used by mules two centuries ago


Approaching the Lock

Water draining out of the Lock


A small barge coming out of the Lock from the other direction

Lock fully open for barge to leave and our boat to proceed


This boat was about the size of the boats at the time of Joseph Smith

Entering the Lock

Our boat after entering into the Lock and the gate is closing

Securing the boat before water enters into the Lock

Water coming in and the boat is rising

Lock is almost full, ready to exit 25 feet higher than we entered

Coming out of the Lock at the higher elevation

Going back through the lock, water level is lowering


Controlling the boat while the water reduces


On the way back, water is lowering

Getting ready to exit the Lock

Leaving the lock again, this time at the lower elevation

Some of the beautiful homes on the south of the Erie Canal

Many with boat docks

One happy surprise:

Just a few days ago, we saw a large package in our mailbox.  When we retrieved it we found this beautiful Shutter Fly book of our recent Teenage Grandchildren Retreat. It was made by our daughter-in-law, Amy.  She also sent one to each of those who participated.  What a treat and what wonderful memories!


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